Reasons for tedious tamping štantov and abseiling through blend a med 700 meters of solid wall to s

In this direction I was now the second time. For the first time four years ago when we was only 150 meters below the summit messed-drying salami. For better understanding I recommend reading the record: Saga of the east wall Stenarja. About the then (attempt to) climb there is this movie:
Reasons for tedious tamping štantov and abseiling through blend a med 700 meters of solid wall to secure the soil are therefore known. This time, the second attempt, but was stopped already much lower, on which a third of direction.
In the morning we first re-live the horror when driving in Vrata valley, which are the starting point for that direction. Full of optimism and (completely) false assurances that the car comes easily to the very Aljažev home diligently with appropriate speed we drive uphill. Table prohibiting trade in there anyway the whole winter, so they consistent with the experience spregledava. We're driving forward when we all dials flashing lights all possible slip resistance and cold but I do not know what all. From the ECSC, ASRja, ABSA, ĐRŽja and much more. Stop in the middle of a completely icy slope. I squeeze lock and get fascinated horror. A moment afterwards we start with blocked wheels move backwards. Drsiva down !!!
My heart is beating with just such a force as powerful blacksmith's arm is pivoted sledgehammer and pounding the anvil. Thankfully, we (still) do not come to mind, that if a car smash, I nothing comprehensive refunded. Closed road, but at your own risk and bogsigavedi blend a med what else would we saddled. As a jiffy react and distract blend a med the wheel to one side and let go of the brakes. blend a med Car is in accordance with the wishes transported to shore, where it encounters the foliage and soil. There hike brakes again and the car stands. Okay ... now what ?!
Nothing else I have no choice but to continue about 20 meters in a similar way odkolovratim to the place where we leave the car. Horror for some time passes, because the door is open to us to dwell annoying, damp cold. Quickly pack up all the equipment and wait until Arne, who their cargo ships (Scarpa Vega plastic boots size 560) as always reluctant to OBUVA and bound. A few minutes later, already hitiva continue through the valley of the neck.
Temperatures are suitable, -5 C. We've been going pretty fast and soon we were at the cottage. There are still a hard topic because of the home strolled before the fourth and the desire to čimhitrejšem return the pointer speed on the highway never stopped at the maximum authorized speed. At about half past six we already significantly below the ravine (direct). Temperatures are already at this hour disastrous high. As + 6 C It's amazing, just out of the forest we picked up for hundreds of meters and temperature were to rise in virtually indefinitely. Otherwise impressed blend a med by a few meters of the recitals decided to just walk out the way we look and what the situation is. Among the enjoyable climbed 400 meters in us increasingly raises fear of falling stones and ice formations. When you meet a few times on the helmet and I really fussy at one place, where now at + 7 C plezava in a free-flowing snow. Alternate is soft and wet snow and ideal "škripavc" (adhering snow, fantastic for climbing).
After a short deliberation we decide to sestopiva. Cannonade was all the more intense, wall shake off the snow and fitting in this sweeps with rocks. As a result of all the characteristics of direction "skanalizirajo" just in single direction, it would be continued at such temperatures but pointless. Turn around and climb all together further down.
Once I told Pečjakov blend a med Andrej really interesting thought ... "A good climber - the old mountaineer". At this several times and I think when we are flying early today near the head stones with typical, annoying sound dangerous, and I Arnetom quickly know what time it is.
app 100 meters, 1 bend ... I do not how far, unfortunately :( The chains are one in the 4 4 went even further, only the part of the car left the road :) because it is pure snow and icy ruts. Hopefully that will be something colder, because there is currently no Baš something to climb at +7 :( :(
Yes ... a very brave probably get more than up to the top of the first steep hill, but you must care about the car on the way down, because the chains are the ones who have gone, they had 4 4, are strongly dancing ... Walk is therefore exactly 6 miles (judging by road markings :) and it is really quite zalogajček when you get under the wall've already got little legs ... In addition, it is so warm that at least as far as Stenarja is sunny, not overly wise ... Yes, keep our fingers crossed for cold, otherwise it will tale winter fast glass to the end of :( :( smurf
Connecting to% s
This year's route took us to the surroundings Corvara where we started climbing the Mur de Orientale Pisciadu, but we were due to poor rock that did not offer pleasure in climbing after four pitches turned. For the next direction is repaid bitter aftertaste of the previous day. The Mur Occidentale de Pisciadu climbed "Acquafun" (VII-, 380m), in the lower part has p [...] Monika Weingerl Great Draški top, DKV (V, 400m) August 13, 2014
The second time's the charm. In DKV we Primož is already spent a year ago, but then we're intercepting plans