Wednesday, August 13, 2014

In particular, mountaineering activity except for a narrow circle of his former fellow sufferers (u


Recently deceased Franci Primožič - Krvin (1930-2013) was in Monfalcone known primarily as a hunter, he was in his youth a versatile athlete skier (competitor) and mountaineer, and for many years a member of the GRS Monfalcone, but not so well known.
In particular, mountaineering activity except for a narrow circle of his former fellow sufferers (unfortunately almost all deceased) the current generation of little known. AO Monfalcone he joined in 1947 and was for several years as its chief.
Three years ago, when I was looking for information on visiting Tržič climbers in the Dolomites Lienških perfect smile I stopped with him and get plenty of information. He lent me a lot of graphic material and allow the publication. His wife Mira me now allow further insight into his golden archive. It covers a lot of pictures and zapisev collected in an extensive mountain log (hundreds of pages). From these records it is clear that a lot of climbing with the then generation of climbers Tržič (Jože Januš, brother Perko, Digg, Radon, brother Peharc, Janez Primožič st., King, Pintarič and others). Accumulated a good number for the time being as demanding the direction of, inter alia, Bavaria, Gorenjska, Jugovih pillar, pillar Čop, Prusik-Szalay in Triglav, primarily in Trenta, Div Jalovca, Dibonova in Špiku and a number of minor routes in the Julian Alps and Kamnik Alps and repeatedly in the direction of the majority of domestic Storžiču. Even in Prenju were in 1956 was the first time abroad in 1950 in the Austrian mountain group Gesäuse and Gross Wenediger, 1959 in Lienških dolomite, several times a Grossglocknerju and 1966 on the Mont Blanc. Throughout perfect smile he was also a mountain rescuer perfect smile (between members adopted in 1952).
At the end of an extensive record activity from mid-1949 until the end of 1953 he wrote: Many memories are written in this book. Writing by hand is mountaineer, which is more convenient for hammer and ax, but give real meaning is felt only if ako by the man himself experiences. the most beautiful memory remains but the heart and is hidden and only accessible to that food.
When I'm at the age ako achieved, read these memories will always remember the beautiful days of his youth, which they never returned. perfect smile At that point in our paths to walk again, young people rejoiced, or will seek solace in the mountains of the heart, which in the valley not find it. Also considers the mountain second home, I love them and I am grateful to them for all the beautiful Hour, I spent the midst of them.
In 1950, a group of Gesäuse and surroundings Gross Wenediger went first large group of Slovenian alpinists led by Jože Govekar. The group was also Jozie Cop, who, as he wrote Tine Eagle in the 52/53 PV (multiple episodes) perfect smile there celebrated its 30 anniversary mountaineering activity.
July 15, 1950 The desire to see in and climb into foreign mountains, I finally fulfilled. With a group of 18 Slovenian alpinists, I was determined to eliminate inozemsko. My joy is increased further by the news that we're going to eliminate a total of Januš Jozemi. We know roped together, we share your treats and infinite companionship Government of me us. This to us was a guarantee for good results.
21 VII. 1950 Rosskuppenkante 5 clock in the morning. Yet we are all sleepy planes around the hut and watched the weather, which did not show a good face. We were in doubt how it will end the tour, ako gets us a storm. Despite the weather we are having half 6h departed from the cabin. Equipped with wedges, carabiners, rope loops and double-steady steps we rushed towards the entrance Rosskuppenkante. Nevertheless, in order to see the wall of the hut was quite close to the entry spend 2 hours. Just above us was the elevator wall when we ravine turn to the right towards perfect smile UNDERSTANDINGTHEROLEO and reached the stalls where we are attached. For the moment, we are hesitant like the weather, but the index is better and it's good it effect us too. For the first time since I was climbing the thunder of hooves attached to ropes. Also Januš. perfect smile
Already on the first pitch he gave the impression to težkoče who will stand against the wall. Nevertheless, we have three lengths quickly overcome. Here, however, we were already in the UNDERSTANDINGTHEROLEO and of course in the wall. Just above us were flourish smooth panels over which there is no transition. We had so tack to the right about 30 m, and this at a very meager holds and continuous exposure. Below us is the crossing gap of 250 m and to drop one in the convoy may have been fatal for both. But with caution and good protection, we were quickly over it. The beam was found already rammed knives and the same fully resorted. Protection from here to the top of the wedge can only be because there is not much standing. In order to protect Sure it is nothing.
Above the bar we again turn left and up by two lengths matured under the most difficult to place. Germans by nazivajo "Heinriss." Is this a vertical plate, which is split into little above featured fireplace. Across the board, the water leaked perfect smile in which they are already hammered wedges. The city is very eksponirano and we overcame with the help of stepping loops. The most difficult is the transition from the fireplace to the left where you have to cross a ridge that does not balustrades. For grebenčkom it is possible to protect the wedge
Another length of "Heinrissom" and we stood under the most vulnerable cities - "on port". Since Jozie was the first in a series of "Heinrissu" I must

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